Helvellyn Walk from Thirlmere (Avoiding Striding Edge)
Helvellyn is one of the Lake District’s most iconic fells. At 950 metres, it’s the third-highest peak in England, and for many people, its reputation is tied almost entirely to Striding Edge. This famous grade 1 scramble is a narrow, rocky ridge that demands a head for heights and a willingness to get hands-on.
I, for one, do not have a head for heights.
If you’re like me, the good news is that you absolutely don’t need to go anywhere near Striding Edge to enjoy Helvellyn. This circular walk from Thirlmere offers a much less intimidating route to the summit, while still delivering some of the best views in the Eastern Fells.
Starting from Swirls car park, this walk climbs steadily up to Helvellyn’s summit before descending on the opposite side. The views on the descent are phenomenal, with Thirlmere visible almost the whole way. The route then follows a scenic forestry track alongside Thirlmere back to the car park.
Route overview: Circular Helvellyn walk from Thirlmere
Start/end: Swirls Car Park
Distance: 6.5 miles (10.6 km)
Elevation gain: 894 metres
Time: 4 – 5 hours
Difficulty: Challenging with a long and steep ascent, but no scrambling
Best for: Anyone wanting to summit Helvellyn without Striding or Swirral Edge
Helvellyn from Thirlmere map
I would recommend following this route clockwise, as you’ll get the steep climb out of the way first, and the descent will be kinder on your knees.
Getting to the trailhead
The trailhead for this Helvellyn walk is directly inside Swirls Car Park, which sits just off the A591 between Keswick and Grasmere.
Every time I’ve walked through this car park, it hasn’t been full, so you should have no problems parking here. That being said, if it’s a sunny weekend or bank holiday, I would suggest getting there early.
Parking currently costs £7. If you’d rather avoid the charge, there’s a free layby a short distance away on the A591. When driving from Keswick towards Grasmere, it’s on the left-hand side and usually has a few cars already parked there, so it’s easy to spot. From the layby, it’s around a 5 – 10 minute walk to Swirls Car Park.
There are free public toilets at Swirls, which is always worth knowing.
If you’re coming by public transport, Swirls is one of the easiest Helvellyn start points to reach without a car. The 555 bus stops directly at the car park and runs regularly between Keswick, Grasmere, and Ambleside. Journey times are roughly 20 minutes from Keswick and 30 minutes from Ambleside, with services every 30 – 60 minutes depending on the time of day.
Detailed breakdown of the walk itself
Begin at Swirls car park
At the back of the car park, you’ll see a bridge crossing a stream, along with a signpost pointing towards Helvellyn.
Cross the bridge and begin following the rocky trail uphill. The path is easy to follow from the start, so there’s little chance of taking a wrong turn here.
Climb towards Helvellyn via Lower Man
The route wastes no time gaining elevation. After a short section through the lower hillside, you’ll follow stone steps climbing up towards Lower Man.
The climb is fairly relentless. It’s essentially around two hours of steady uphill walking, so expect to work for it a bit. The path is wide and clear throughout, although it becomes rockier and looser underfoot higher up, with some small patches of scree along the way.
As you continue climbing, the views just keep getting better. Looking back, you’ll be able to see the length of Thirlmere stretching out below you, framed by the surrounding mountains.
Eventually, you’ll reach Lower Man before continuing along the broad ridge towards Helvellyn summit itself.
Reach the summit of Helvellyn
Once at Helvellyn’s summit, you’ll be able to see Red Tarn sitting beneath Striding Edge, as well as sweeping views across much of the Lake District on a clear day.
The top itself is broad and fairly flat, with plenty of space to stop for a break before beginning the descent.
⚠️ The route is straightforward in clear weather, but Helvellyn is notorious for low cloud, and the broad, flat summit plateau can become disorientating in mist. I’d recommend downloading the route to your phone before setting off, and carrying a map + compass as backup.
Descend towards Thirlmere
Continue over the far side of Helvellyn, with views of Striding Edge appearing on your left-hand side as you descend away from the summit.
Shortly afterwards, you’ll reach a fork in the trail. Take the right-hand path here to begin descending back towards Thirlmere.
The descent is very indirect and zigzagged, but honestly, I appreciate that. It makes the walk much easier on the knees.
The path remains extremely easy to follow all the way down, with no junctions to worry about. The scenery throughout this section is incredible, with near-constant views over Thirlmere and the surrounding fells almost the entire way.
Follow the forestry track back to Swirls
Lower down, you’ll eventually reach a gate leading into a wooded section of trail. Continue through the gate and keep descending through the trees until the narrow path joins a wide gravel forestry track. Turn right here.
From here, it’s a fairly gentle walk back towards Swirls along wide gravel tracks running parallel to Thirlmere.
By this stage, your legs may well be feeling a little tired, so the easier terrain is quite welcome. The track stays mostly level, with the trees providing some shade along the way, while occasional gaps in the branches give glimpses out across the reservoir.
There’s a very well-placed bench along this track, with great views over the reservoir. I like to stop here for a snack break.
Simply continue following the track with Thirlmere on your left, and it will eventually lead you back to Swirls car park.
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I hope this Helvellyn guide was helpful in planning your walk.
I’ll leave you with a few photos of my childhood dog Rooney on Helvellyn in winter, purely because I adore these photos and wanted an excuse to include them.
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WALKS
A short but punchy fell that has earned its place as a classic Lake District walk.
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- My guide for hiking Catbells.
⛰️ Want even more? Visit my Lake District Hub to browse all my walking guides and planning tips.
About The Author
Lauren Pears is a freelance travel writer and blogger who writes about active adventure travel. She’s been blogging for almost 10 years, and has written for publications such as Lonely Planet, World Nomads, and Southeast Asia Backpacker.
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