Exploring the Ancient City of Polonnaruwa by Bike

Nestled in the heart of Sri Lanka’s famed cultural triangle, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa sits within 4 kilometres of peaceful woodland. It’s the second of Sri Lanka’s three ancient capitals — Anuradphura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy — and contains well-preserved monuments, temples and relics from the kingdom’s heyday.

The best and most efficient way to explore Polonnaruwa is by bicycle. The ancient city might seem vast on foot, but on two wheels, you’ll be able to see all the best sites in one day while maintaining a leisurely pace on your bike. Not only this, but many of Polonnaruwa’s archaeological sites are connected by tree-lined boulevards, which makes cycling between them a delight.

In this blog post, I’ll provide a cycling route and itinerary for Polonnaruwa, which will take you to 7 historical sites within the ancient city. Particularly keen cyclists can then continue on to ride along the beautiful Sea of King Parakrama, Sri Lanka’s largest man-made reservoir.

History of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa

Anuradphura was the first capital of the Sinhalese Kingdom, reigning for over 1400 years before the Chola dynasty from South India invaded and destroyed the city. Seeking a new capital, the Cholas chose Polonnaruwa, as its strategic location meant it would be easier to defend from invading armies.

However, the Cholas’ reign in Polonnaruwa was short-lived, as Sinhalese lineage was restored to the throne with King Vijayabahu’s victory in 1070. A succession of kings ruled Polonnaruwa for the next century and a half, building it into a thriving city with monumental palaces, ornate temples, and landscaped gardens.

Polonnaruwa’s era of prosperity ended in the mid-13th century, when the city was abandoned following a series of civil wars, invasions and malaria outbreaks. The incredible ruins of the ancient city were hidden by the jungle for centuries, until they were rediscovered in the mid-1800s and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.

Today, only the ruins of temples, palaces, and pools remain in Polonnaruwa — a reminder of a remarkable kingdom that once flourished nearly 1000 years ago.

Where to hire bikes in Polonnaruwa

You won’t struggle to find somewhere to rent a bike in Polonnaruwa. There are a few places to hire at the gates of the ancient city — simply cross the road with your bike and you’re in. For example, a rental shop called Pramod Cycle Depot is conveniently located just 200 metres from the entrance. Many hotels in the area also offer bikes to rent.

Your hire bike will most likely be a fixed-gear city bike, which is perfect for Polonnaruwa’s flat topography. Expect to pay about 500 rupees for the day.

Tip: If you want to explore Polonnaruwa by bike but aren’t sure about doing it yourself, you could book this guided cycling tour instead.

Polonnaruwa cycling route and itinerary: which sites should you visit?

This Polonnaruwa cycling route will begin at the Archeological Museum and then take you to 7 sites: the Palace Complex of King Nissanka, the Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu, Siva Devale No 2, the Sacred Quadrangle, Rankoth Vehera, Lankatilaka Viharaya and Gal Vihara.

There are plenty of easy detours you can make during your bike ride, as the ancient city is very well signposted. The stops I’ve suggested are just some highlights — you can check out lots of other historic sites between them.

I’ve created a map below to help you navigate your way. A suggested bike rental shop is marked in red, and the archaeological sites are marked in purple. The entire tour should take about 4 hours at a leisurely pace.

1) Polonnaruwa Archeological Museum

Once you’ve collected your bike, head to the Polonnaruwa Archeological Museum. This is where you’ll need to buy your ticket for entry to the ancient city (25 USD). I recommend spending a short while exploring the museum, as this will give you some context and insight into what you’re about to see.

2) Palace Complex of King Nissanka

From the Archeological Museum, make your way to the first site — the Palace Complex of King Nissanka. This complex was built during the reign of King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196), and despite very little now remaining, it still showcases the grandeur of the buildings during this time.

The Palace Complex consists of several buildings, including the royal palace, the council chamber, the audience hall, the queen’s palace, the bathing pond, and the royal chapel. The buildings are made of brick and mortar and are decorated with elaborate carvings and sculptures.

3) Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu

Next up on your Polonnaruwa cycling itinerary is the Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu. King Parakramabahu ruled Polonnaruwa from 1153 to 1186, and built this palace as his residence and administrative centre. It was one of the most impressive complexes in the city, covering an area of approximately 10 hectares.

This huge palace was thought to have thousands of rooms across 7 stories, although only 55 rooms and 3 stories remain today. South Indian invaders had set fire to the structure — you can still see where the building is scorched. Despite this, it’s easy to imagine the grand palace it once was.

4) Siva Devale No 2

Siva Devale No 2 is a Hindu temple devoted to the God Shiva, built during the reign of King Parakramabahu. Despite being one of the oldest buildings in Polonnaruwa, it’s also one of the best preserved. Expertly carved from granite, this temple has a dome-shaped roof and intricate carvings on its walls.

5) The Sacred Quadrangle

The next stop is the Sacred Quadrangle, also known as the “Inner City.” This was the centre of religious and political activity during the reign of Polonnaruwa, and now contains a very concentrated collection of well-preserved ruins.

My personal favourite ruin within the Sacred Quadrangle was a circular structure called the Vadatage. This is thought to have been built by King Parakramabahu to house the tooth relic of Buddha. Obviously, the tooth is no longer here, but is now located in Kandy, inside the aptly-named Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.

Tip: There are many sacred sites in Polonnaruwa where you’ll need to take off your shoes to enter. For this reason, I recommend wearing shoes that are easy to take on and off. I also advise you to wear socks as the stone grounds can get hot.

6) Rankoth Vehera

The impressive Rankoth Vehera is the largest stupa in the ancient city. It’s made entirely from brick, and was built during the reign of King Nissanka.

7) Lankatilaka Viharaya

Lankatilaka Viharaya is a monolithic Buddha image house built by King Parakramabahu. The interior consists of a large hall with four Buddha statues, each facing a different direction. The walls of the hall are adorned with elaborate frescoes depicting scenes from Buddhist mythology. One of the most striking features of the image house is the large Buddha statue that stands at the entrance.

8) Gal Vihara

The final stop on your cycling tour of Polonnaruwa is Gal Vihara. Built in the 12th century by King Parakramabahu, this stunning temple consists of four massive Buddha statues expertly carved from rock. The largest statue, a standing Buddha, measures 14 metres in height and is one of the largest rock-cut Buddha statues in the world.

I thought this was a particularly impressive temple, and made a great final stop within the ancient city.

Want to continue your cycling adventure in Polonnaruwa?

If you want to continue exploring Polonnaruwa by bike, I recommend heading to Parakrama Samudraya (the Sea of King Parakrama). This is the biggest man-made reservoir in Sri Lanka, and is very easy to get to from the ancient city. From the Archaeological Museum Complex, simply follow Bund Road, and you’ll find yourself pedalling alongside the reservoir.

The road is beautiful and quiet, and makes for a great afternoon ride along the water and past scenic farmland. The road does not loop around the whole reservoir, but you can cycle a distance that’s comfortable for you, then turn around and come back the way you came.

The reservoir is fed by a canal system and rainwater from the highlands. It’s as old as the ancient city itself and is still used today to irrigate the large rice cultivation areas around Polonnaruwa.

Cycling around Polonnaruwa’s ancient city and along the reservoir was one of my favourite days in Sri Lanka — the perfect mix of temples and scenery!

---

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren.

Hotels – Booking.com
Hostels – Hostelworld
Cheap flights – Skyscanner
Travel insurance – World Nomads
Outdoor gear – Decathlon / GO Outdoors
Cycling gear – Chain Reaction Cycles

Alternatively, you could buy me a coffee to say thanks!