Intrepid Travel Review: Cycle Sri Lanka

In March 2023, I joined a guided cycling tour to Sri Lanka with Intrepid Travel. This consisted of 8 strangers and 14 days of exploring the best of what this tiny country has to offer by bike.

This was actually my first-ever group cycling tour. All other bicycle travel I’ve done has always been self-supported, so I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect. However, I had a fantastic time on this trip and will definitely do another group cycling tour in the future. I’m thinking Vietnam!

This is a complete review of the Cycle Sri Lanka trip by Intrepid Travel, including the itinerary we followed, highlights, and what I thought about the guides, accommodation, food and more.

Intrepid Travel Review: Cycling Sri Lanka Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Negombo

The first day of any Intrepid tour is a free day for your arrival. You just need to get yourself to the first hotel at some point on that day, in time for the evening welcome meeting.

I, however, did not make it in time for the welcome meeting. My flight with Qatar Airways was delayed by an impressive 30 hours, so I actually arrived in Sri Lanka on day 2 of the tour.

Day 2: Chilaw and Anuradhapura

Due to my flight delay, I sadly arrived at Negombo Airport at midday, and had to take a 3-hour taxi to tonight’s hotel in Anuradhapura to meet my group.

I had arrived in time to join everyone for dinner. I was worried I would feel a little left out since they had spent the day cycling together, but the group were all very welcoming. Stella, Suzanne and Ade from the UK, Nick and Victor from the States, Fiona and Bob from Canada. Our tour guide, Indi, was also great, with an infectious smile and plenty of interesting stories to tell.

Where we stayed: Ceylan Lodge.

Day 3: Anuradhapura

After breakfast at the hotel, we cycled to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Anuradhapura. This is one of Ceylon’s ancient capitals: a huge area with plenty of temples, ruins and history to explore. We were given a guided bike tour of the ancient city, including visits to the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ruwanweli Maha Seya stupa, Jethawanaramaya temple and the Anuradhapura museum.

The ruins are spread over quite a large area, so using a bike to get around is ideal. Some ruins are located in woodland, while others are clustered together in open spaces. After touring the ancient city, we cycled through scenic countryside to our lunch spot. Our crew had set up a picnic of curry and rice next to a river — simply delicious. From here, we rode back to our hotel, where we enjoyed free time for the rest of the afternoon.

Where we stayed: Ceylan Lodge, same as last night.

Day 4: Ritigala and Polonnaruwa

We woke up early and cycled about 70km from our hotel in Anuradhapura towards an ancient Buddhist monastery, Ritigala. The cycling was hard work in the Sri Lankan heat, but the scenery was stunning, as we passed rice paddies, reservoirs and jungle.

We had lunch at a countryside kiosk, before transferring the rest of the way to the Ritigala monastery by bus. This monastery dates back to the 1st century BCE and is named after the mountain on which it sits. Indi passionately showed us around the site, explaining what life would have been like for the monks who resided there.

After exploring the monastery, we hopped back onto the bus and transferred to Polonnaruwa. Our hotel was beautiful and had a swimming pool, so we relaxed in the sun on arrival before heading to dinner. We were taken to a real off-the-beaten path restaurant in the countryside, where we were served a buffet-style selection of rice and curries.

Where we stayed: Siyanco Holiday Resort

Day 5: Polonnaruwa, Minneriya Safari and Dambulla

Today was perhaps the busiest and most action-packed day of the whole trip, but it was also one of my favourite days. Indi told us we had the option of going on a safari to nearby Minneriya National Park after today’s cycling. Everyone in the group said yes, so that was the new plan for the afternoon.

We set off on our bikes towards the ancient site of Polonnaruwa, which is the second oldest of Sri Lanka’s ancient kingdoms. Polonnaruwa is relatively compact, so we were able to visit quite a few temples and ruins in a short space of time.

After cycling around Polonnaruwa, we rode back to our hotel for some tea and lavariya — a sweet dumpling containing caramelised coconut — before continuing on to the town of Diyabeduma.

At one point, an angry grey langur jumped out at me, snarling and baring its teeth. I thought it would stop as I cycled away, but it began to chase — and it was fast! Luckily, it didn’t take long for it to give up, but it was quite a frightening experience.

Monkey drama aside, our route to Diyabeduma was beautiful. We rode along a scenic lake, through verdant jungle, and past farmland, before sitting down to a delicious lunch and then transferring to Minneriya National Park by bus.

This was my first ever safari, and I was completely surprised by just how many elephants we saw up close. It was wonderful to see these iconic animals in the wild. We then transferred to our hotel in Dambulla for the night.

Where we stayed: Gimanhala Hotel

Day 6: Sigiriya Rock and Kandy

This morning, we cycled 15km from our hotel in Dambulla to the ancient rock fortress, Sigiriya. This World Heritage Site is one of the most visited places in Sri Lanka, consisting of palace ruins perched on top of a 200-metre-high rock. The rock itself is a lava plug left over from a long-extinct volcano.

On arrival at Sigiriya, we devoured some well-earned breakfast before hiking up to the top. The steps are quite steep and many people were struggling with vertigo as they climbed, but the reward is worth it, as you’ll be treated to sweeping views across the lush, green jungle.

After descending Sigiriya, we enjoyed a quick tea break before jumping back on our bikes and cycling through the picturesque countryside. We had lunch at a spice garden near Matale, before travelling the final kilometres to Kandy in the bus.

In the evening, we visited the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. This ornate temple is the most important religious site in Sri Lanka, as it houses a tooth from Buddha himself.

Where we stayed: Senani Hotel

Day 7: Kandy

Today was a dedicated rest day from the bikes, although there was the option to go for a ride in the mountains if you wanted. One member of my group opted to do this and said it was a fantastic day of cycling.

The rest of us spent the day exploring Kandy. We visited the Ceylon Tea Museum and the Royal Botanical Garden, walked around the lake, and also watched a traditional Kandyan dance. For lunch, we visited the Hela Bojun Hala Restaurant, a social enterprise founded by the government to provide employment to women from local communities — we tasted a range of Sri Lankan dishes, including egg rolls, roti and lavariya.

Where we stayed: Senani Hotel

Day 8: Hatton

The railway from Kandy to Ella is rather famous, as it’s considered one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. It passes lush tea plantations, rolling mountains, viaducts, valleys, and dense jungles. So, rather than beginning the day on the bikes, we drove to Kandy Railway Station, where we boarded the train to Hatton. The three-hour journey flew by as we watched the gorgeous scenery unfold.

After our train ride, we cycled about 40km from Hatton Station to Maskeliya. Now that we were truly in the central highlands of Sri Lanka, the scenery was spectacular. The hills were rolling and verdant, sprinkled with leafy tea plantations and peaceful villages.

We spent the rest of the afternoon cycling Hatton’s gorgeous tea plantations, before arriving at our hotel for the night.

Where we stayed: Laa Adams

Day 9: Tissamaharama

Somehow, the scenery today was even more incredible than yesterday. We followed what’s said to be one of the most beautiful stretches of road in Sri Lanka, cycling along tea plantations and lush pine forests. We did a lot of climbing today, going higher and higher into the mountains, but the reward was worth it. The scenery became more impressive the more we climbed.

We had lunch in the town Balangoda, and then transferred to Tissamaharama, where we were to be spending the next two nights. Tissamaharama is a launching pad for safaris in Yala, Sri Lanka’s most famous national park.

Where we stayed: Oga Reach Hotel

Day 10: Yala National Park

We spent the morning cycling through the beautiful countryside around Tissamaharama. We stopped often to admire the scenery, as the landscape was rich with wildlife. We saw plenty of birds such as painted storks, bee-eaters and spoonbills, as well as flying foxes, water buffalo and more. I suppose this is the nature of being so close to the borders of Yala National Park.

We pedalled our way to Kataragama, a pilgrimage town sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. We explored a colourful temple complex there, before heading back to our hotel for some lunch. Then, it was time to head to Yala National Park for our safari — an experience I was most looking forward to.

Yala is thought to have the highest density of leopards in the world, with an estimated 100 – 125 individuals residing in the park. While we sadly didn’t see a leopard, we did see a very impressive range of wildlife, including elephants, crocodiles, buffalo, wild boar and more.

Where we stayed: Oga Reach Hotel, same as last night.

Day 11: Mirissa

Today was sadly our last day of cycling. We rode from Tissamaharama to Hambantota via Bundala National Park, finishing the ride at a beach with some cold drinks and a commemorative photo.

After a spicy lunch at a local restaurant, we said goodbye to our cycling crew, Kasun and Vish, before heading to Mirissa by bus. We stopped at an impressive temple and a scenic beach along the way, before checking into our clifftops cabins at Mirissa.

We headed down to the beach to grab some dinner; a long curve of sand with blue but rough waters. As we were walking towards the restaurant, we spotted a waterspout far out at sea. I had never seen one before and was completely mesmerised — a huge vortex of wind, not unlike a tornado.

Where we stayed: Palace Mirissa

Day 12: Mirissa and Galle

Today was all about relaxation after an amazing time cycling in Sri Lanka. I had a lazy morning enjoying an omelette, fruit and coffee, before heading down to Mirissa beach. Myself and Victor went for a walk to Parrot Rock, a rocky outcrop at the far end of the beach which offered nice views across the ocean. Then, we headed to a Beach Club to enjoy some iced coffees, fresh coconuts and the glorious sunshine.

Later in the afternoon, we were driven to Galle, a World Heritage-listed Dutch fort with extensive walls, ramparts and ruins. We explored the historic fort, enjoyed dinner at a restaurant converted from an old Dutch hospital, and then drove back to Mirissa for the night.

Where we stayed: Palace Mirissa, same as last night.

Day 13: Colombo

Before I knew it, it was the last full day of the tour. We began the three-hour drive to Colombo soon after breakfast. On arrival, we visited Independence Square and went on a short city walk through the chaotic Petta Bazaar. The highlight for me was the Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, a striking candy-cane-coloured mosque.

We then had plenty of free time to explore the city before our final dinner together. Myself, Victor and Stella opted to go for a walk around the lake in the city centre. This was quite a strange experience. The lake obviously used to be a bustling recreational area, as there were lots of decaying benches, vending machines and remnants of old shops along the lake. Clearly, something — perhaps Covid? — has caused the lake to be abandoned, as the walking paths along it were quite overgrown and eerie.

Where we stayed: Fairway Colombo

Day 14: Departure from Colombo

The final day of any Intrepid tour is departure day, where you are free to leave at any time. Most of us had early flights, while others were staying in Colombo for another day or two. My flight was at 10:30 am, so I got up early and hopped in a taxi to make my way back to London.

Intrepid review: The guides

The crew for the duration of the trip consisted of four people:

• Our tour guide, Indi
• Our cycling guide, Kasun
• Our support vehicle driver, Vish
• Our bus driver, Sampath

Each of them was incredibly helpful, kind and knowledgeable. I’ve had a handful of really poor tour guides in my time, as well as plenty of excellent ones. Indi was genuinely the best tour guide I’ve ever experienced.

Our support vehicle driver, Vish, would follow behind in a small truck as we cycled. He would ensure our water bottles were always full and would hand out biscuits and bananas during breaks. It was great to know that the support truck was always there if the heat got too much.

Intrepid review: The cycling and other activities

The cycling each day was varied. Some days we cycled around historic sites such as Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, other days we pedalled alongside lush green farmland or scenic lakes. We also rode through tiny villages, which felt like we were really getting to see some off-the-beaten-track places.

Regardless of whether we were visiting historical sites or the countryside, the cycling was always beautiful and the route well-designed.

The cycling distances on the trip were relatively short, but given the heat and humidity, it would have been very tough to cycle far into the afternoon. I personally struggled a lot with the heat. We would typically set off on our bikes very early in the morning and cycle up until about lunchtime. After lunch, we would transfer to our hotel via an air-conditioned bus.

On arrival at each hotel, we would either enjoy some downtime before dinner, explore the nearby town, or do some non-cycling activities such as visiting a temple or going on a safari. For me, the balance between cycling and non-cycling activities was perfect.

Intrepid review: The food

Sri Lankan food involves lots of curry and rice. We must have eaten curry and rice every day! However, the curries were delicious, so this isn’t a complaint at all. As a vegetarian, it meant I had plenty of excellent food choices: dal, plantain, pumpkin or okra curries were usually available.

Breakfast was always included as part of our hotel stay: we would typically have bread, eggs, fruit, pancakes, tea and coffee available each morning.

Lunch was always a highlight: we would usually cycle to our lunch spot, which was often in the home of a kind local or at a scenic picnic spot in the countryside. I was very impressed with the quality, quantity and setting of our lunches. It was always the best meal of the day.

Intrepid review: The accommodation

The hotels we stayed in were generally clean and comfortable. I occasionally had a gecko or frog in my bathroom, but this isn’t something that bothered me — this is often the nature of travel in tropical countries. Each hotel we stayed at had a decent breakfast included, and most had a swimming pool and WiFi. I was actually expecting mediocre accommodation, as this holiday focuses on being active rather than luxury, so I was more than satisfied with the hotels we stayed in.

Intrepid review: The transport

As this is a cycling tour, a lot of our transport was — obviously — via bike. That being said, the cycling distances on this trip are relatively short. We would cycle up until about 2 pm at the latest, and then travel to our hotel in our private, air-conditioned bus. Our bikes would be loaded into the support vehicle and driven to the hotel as well, ready for the following day.

The bus didn’t have a toilet, but we made regular bathroom stops. The longest bus ride was about 3 hours, and I would pass the time by chatting with my group or listening to music. We would also make semi-frequent pitstops to temples or scenic viewpoints, which helped break up the bus journeys. Our bus driver, Sampath, always kept the bus clean and tidy.

Intrepid review: Sustainability and responsibility

I care a lot about responsible travel and only book with operators that support my views on this. Intrepid Travel is well-known for its stance on responsible travel. For example, they work to maximise the benefits created by tourism by employing local staff; they strive to travel in ways that are as environmentally friendly as possible; they minimise the use of resources; they protect wildlife, and they support local communities.

Intrepid’s views on responsible travel were reflected throughout the tour. Indi spoke to us about the perils of elephant tourism, and how turtle hatcheries are not always what they seem. He was also very open about issues within the country. We used local guides often, such as when we went to the Ceylon Tea Museum, and we ate in local restaurants or homes within a community.

Intrepid review: My verdict

All in all, I thought Intrepid’s Cycling Sri Lanka tour was excellent. It was very well planned and organised, with no hiccups at all. The cycling was beautiful, the non-cycling activities were great, and there was just the right amount of downtime. This, coupled with a lovely group of fellow travellers and exceptional guides, made this one of the most enjoyable group tours I’ve ever been on.

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Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren.

Hotels – Booking.com
Hostels – Hostelworld
Cheap flights – Skyscanner
Travel insurance – World Nomads
Outdoor gear – Decathlon / GO Outdoors
Cycling gear – Chain Reaction Cycles

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