London To Istanbul By Bike: Notes From The Road

In the summer of 2019, I cycled from London to Istanbul solo.

I’ve decided to share some diary entry snippets from my London to Istanbul bike ride. I kick-started the journey accompanied by my father, who cycled with me for 10 days, before leaving me to continue onto Istanbul alone.

I’ve only picked a select few diary entries, as there are far too many to include in one blog post, and some are rather boring anyway. I’ve left them mostly raw and unedited, with a few grammatical tweaks here and there, and have omitted some particularly personal parts. I hope that anyone else looking to cycle London to Istanbul, or perhaps just part of the way across Europe, will find them helpful or interesting in some way.

Grab yourself a cup of tea and settle in, because this is by far the longest blog post I’ve published to date.

Day 1: Romford to Faversham – 80km

Well, today went off to a good start! Me and my dad have arrived at our campsite, pitched the tent, and are enjoying a nice cup of coffee. I feel surprisingly good, despite having just cycled 80km.

I have to confess, though, when I left my house and cycled out of my hometown this morning, my entire body was screaming at me, “what the hell are you doing? You can’t cycle to Istanbul!” But after a few hours, I began to relax and enjoy myself. 1 day down, probably about 100 to go…

Day 3: Coldred to Saint-Omer – 124km (including channel crossing)

My bum, thighs and wrists are not happy. The stiffness and soreness from the past two days have well and truly kicked in, and I’m suffering a little. I completely expected this to happen, though, so it’s okay. It’s what I get for not training properly. But today we crossed from England to France, meaning this bicycle tour has officially gone international. Arriving in France honestly felt very surreal; even managing to cycle from London to Dover felt like an achievement. I’m on continental Europe, and from now on, I’ll be using nothing but these two wheels to get to Turkey.

I also got an upgrade to the ferry premium lounge. The guy at check-in asked what we were doing, and of course, my dad said, “she’s cycling to Istanbul for charity!” I really appreciated this gesture from DFDS ferries; I’m not going to have many luxuries over the next few months, so a nice sofa with unlimited pastries, coffee and juice was perfect.

Day 5: Bethune to Cambrai – 79km

I’m beginning to get into the swing of things now. France has been lovely so far; their D roads are quiet and make for good cycling. Our route today took us past a lot of British war memorials; we stopped to visit a few of them, and I was impressed by how beautifully maintained the French have kept them.

We also stopped for an hour or so in the town of Arras. It was a pretty little town, with a beautiful square where we sat to drink coffee. Up until now, the route through Northern France has been a bit uninspiring, but the scenery is beginning to pick up.

Day 6: Cambrai to Honnecourt-sur-Escaut – 17km

We only cycled about 15km today before my legs started to protest and burn at every incline. We decided to call it a day near the village of Honnecourt-sur-Escaut, where we found a nice campsite. I’m beginning to kick myself for not training properly.

Day 8: Day off in Laon

I’ve come to the conclusion that this bike trip will be a lot more manageable if I take it just one day at a time. I’ve also decided that it’s not a race, and if it takes me longer than three months, then that’s okay. Like today, we are currently camped just outside of a town called Laon and decided to take a full day off to explore it. It’s supposed to be quite interesting with lots of historic sights, so I figured a day of sightseeing would help me recenter myself.

Day 10: Reims to Vitry-Le-François – 80km

Dad left to go back home this morning, which meant today was my first day of cycling solo. I’m on my own from this point onwards, with the whole of Europe in front of me.

Unexpectedly, I found today quite difficult and had begun to feel unsure of myself.

Shortly after my dad and I went our separate ways, I found myself on a horrifically unfavourable road. In fact, I was on an “N” road, which was probably illegal for me to be on. It had slip roads coming onto it, and the cars were going too fast for me to cross them safely. I had to pull off as soon as there was a viable exit. I found myself at a service station, shaking and feeling nauseous.

I eventually managed to get onto a quiet D road and made it to Vitry-Le-François without any further hiccups. I’m now set up at a lovely campsite; the sun is shining, and the sky is blue. But I feel quite alone and vulnerable right now, having had my confidence knocked from today’s hairy ride.

Day 11: Vitry-Le-Francois to Froncles – 85km

I woke up this morning expecting the feelings of loneliness and apprehension to be gone, but they were still lingering quite heavily. Nonetheless, I set off along a canal towpath towards the town of St Dizier. The ride there was really beautiful, with the river to my right and beautiful blue skies.

St Dizier was a gorgeous town, and I sat down to have a coffee to recompose myself. The barista — fascinated by my bike — sat down and spoke with me for a while, which instantly alleviated my feelings of loneliness. I realised I hadn’t had a verbal conversation since my dad left yesterday morning, and reminded myself to talk to people often. My French is good enough to get by and make small conversations, so I should be making the most of it.

Thankfully, the chat with the barista had pushed the negative thoughts out of my mind, and I continued onwards to a campsite in Froncles. The whole day was gorgeous; perfect weather, lovely riverside views and, as the day went on, confidence and feelings of content solitude washed over me.

Day 12: Froncles to Langres – 68km

The past two days have been so beautiful. I’ve been following a towpath — The Greenway of The Canal Between Champagne and Burgundy — that follows the Marne river for over 200km. It’s been very peaceful and entirely free of motorised traffic, which is a relief after my traumatising “N” road experience after Reims. I’m beginning to really enjoy the cycling now.

Day 14: Gray to Besancon – 50km

I’ve made it to Besancon! Besancon is, for me, a checkpoint in this journey. This city is on the EuroVelo 6 bicycle route — a route I’m going to be following all the way to Bulgaria. I can breathe a sigh of relief now; I no longer have to stress over planning routes or worry that roads will be too busy for me to cycle comfortably on. I’ve got a dedicated bike path that spans to the opposite side of Europe, and all I have to do is follow it.

France has seen me pass through rustic towns, countless fields of wheat, and along pretty canal towpaths. Croissants and coffee were consumed in abundance, and my legs no longer hurt after a day of cycling. Istanbul seems painfully far away (because it is), but I’ve managed to crawl across France and am now relatively near the Swiss border. Progress!

My boyfriend is coming to Besancon in a couple of days to celebrate my birthday — I’m very much looking forward to a break!

Day 21: Besançon to Baume-les-Dames – 35km

After a long break in Besançon, I was so ready to hit the road. However, it’s only 2pm, and I’m writing this from inside a garden shed. It started raining like hell and seemed like it would continue for the rest of the day and into the night. I pulled over at the nearest campsite I could find, and the lady who ran it was incredibly welcoming, offering me somewhere to dry my clothes. I’m the only camper here, it seems, so she told me I could pitch my tent next to her garden shed and use it for shelter. I am very grateful for this, as the prospect of lying in my tent for the rest of the day while it pours is not too appealing.

Anyway — if you ignore the rain — the 35km of EuroVelo 6 that I managed today were really good. It’s very well signposted, the tarmac is smooth, and the scenery is pleasant. I’m looking forward to seeing why EuroVelo 6 is one of the most popular routes in Europe.

Day 23: Montbeliard to Mulhouse – 57km

The rain has finally stopped. I felt positive and inspired all day, and really enjoyed the ride. I’ve been following the river alongside quaint farming villages and fields of livestock for the past couple of days, which makes for very easy and enjoyable cycling. I’m currently sipping coffee in the square in Mulhouse, which is a really sweet and colourful town. Tomorrow, I’ll be in Switzerland.

Day 24: Mulhouse to Basel – 39km

I made it to Switzerland!

I’ve actually been in France, Switzerland and Germany today because their borders are all so close. Crazy how you can just freely walk in and out of each country.

It’s quite a relief to leave France behind — it feels as though I’m making progress now that I’m in a new country.

France is a nuisance in many ways. For one, all shops in towns and villages – and many cafes and restaurants – close at lunchtime for about 2 hours. It’s quite inconvenient when you need to buy some water or get peckish in the middle of the day. I know I should remember to stock up on food and drink in the morning, but sometimes it doesn’t seem to work like that.

I passed through many beautiful towns and villages, where the rustic buildings, quaint scenery and cobbled streets are nothing short of enchanting. But where is the life? Too many times I cycled through a large town only to find that there was no one there. It’s like a ghost town. Cafes and restaurants are empty, and bakeries are closed. I entered a sports bar one Saturday night to find a single customer nursing his beer in the back. On a Saturday night.

Even at the weekend, the towns were quiet, unpeopled and somewhat sad. I got talking to a man touring France with his German Shepherd and motorhome. I commented on the quiet, emptiness of the rural France I’d seen so far. He said, “rural depopulation. There are hundreds of towns across France which are losing their population fast. More people die than are born, and there is a disproportionate number of old people. This means businesses close, farmlands are left to rot, and the towns are deserted. Entire villages have disappeared off the map.”

France does get a lot of things right for cyclists, though. For one, we’re not seen as scum like we are in the UK. Motorists in France give cyclists space and respect.

It’s almost as though France was built for cyclists; pristine roads, dedicated bike lanes and scenic greenways — France knows what’s good. The bike paths are excellent; well sign-posted, convenient and smooth. Sometimes the roads actually felt kind of silky, and my tyres would glide over them effortlessly.

Tonight, I’m meeting up with a friend from university who just so happens to be in Basel, too. And tomorrow, a friend from school is coming to Basel for the day. She currently lives in Geneva, so it’s a train ride away for her.

Day 26: Basel to Murg – 39km

I ended up starting a little later than I wanted to today, and got quite lost trying to get out of the city. I kept losing the EuroVelo signs, but it turns out they just look a little different in Switzerland. The EuroVelo logo isn’t on all the signs, like they were in France, so you just have to follow the bike path symbols. It seems that the EuroVelo 6 becomes synonymous with Switzerland’s Number 2 Route — The Rhein Route — for a while. Once I figured out the system, it was plain sailing from there.

Switzerland and Germany are beautiful. So beautiful, in fact, that I only managed to do 39km despite being out all day. The EuroVelo 6 took me along the Rhine River, which has Switzerland on its south bank and Germany on its north bank. I was dipped in and out of both countries throughout the day, and just had to keep stopping to take photos of everything. There are so many cute and colourful streets and houses, and picturesque riverside views. I stopped to make coffee by the river about 4 times; I was enjoying myself and wanted today to last forever.

Day 27: Murg to Schaffhausen – 65km

Well, if I thought yesterday was beautiful, then today is astonishing. The whole route today has been glorious, with more colourful, fairytale towns to explore, poppy-ridden meadows, and jaw-dropping riverside scenery. Schaffhausen is quite touristy, but in a good way, with lots of people out enjoying the river and sunshine.

Just before I reached Schaffhausen, I came upon a waterfall. There were lots of coaches and tour buses nearby, so I knew something interesting was coming up. Known as the Rheinfall, it’s supposedly the most “powerful” waterfall in Europe.

I am really loving the EuroVelo 6 cycle route so far — the cycling is flat, easy and well-signposted, as well as being very scenic. I thought this was supposed to be a challenge?

Day 28: Schaffhausen to Radolfzell – 40km

Another day of few kilometres thanks to the tempting scenery. I spent an afternoon relaxing by the waters of Lake Konstanz, enjoying the holiday vibe that emanated from ice cream stalls and tourists splashing in the water. I’m really beginning to enjoy this cycle tour, and am also very much beginning to enjoy my own company.

The initial ups and downs of feeling alone have long gone and have been replaced by a content solitude. Some days, I feel a liberating sense of freedom — everything I need is packed onto my bike, and I can just accept and enjoy wherever the road takes me. I have no one to compromise with, no one to dictate rest stops or what we should have for dinner.

This evening I’m camped next to a guy called Matt. We got chatting, and it turns out he’s cycling to Iran! Pretty impressive, right? Anyway, a couple came over to talk to us, and we exchanged the usual questions. Matt told them he was cycling to Iran, to which they said, “Wow, amazing! You’re going to have such an incredible experience!” But when I said I was cycling to Turkey, which, by the way, is a shorter distance than Iran, they said “What? On your own? Won’t that be dangerous for a young girl like you?” 

This exchange really bothered me. It’s amazing and wonderful for a guy to cycle across a continent, but for a girl to do the same? Not so much. A lot of people have told me to “be careful” and “stay safe” throughout this trip, and these comments are beginning to get to me a little.

Day 31: Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen – 49km

From Lake Konstanz, the route took me a little way north, away from the Rhine and towards the Danube. The ever-changing blues, greens and browns of the Danube have now become a much-appreciated companion, assuring me that I’m always going in the right direction. It’s pretty difficult to get lost when you’re following a river, after all.

The scenery along the Danube is beautiful, too. Today, I cycled along the bank for miles and miles, and not once did the scenery grow boring or monotonous. I’m in a fantastic mood – today was one of the nicest bike rides I’ve ever had.

I’ve also noticed that there’s such a huge variety of people biking along the Danube’s trails. Old ladies on e-bikes, families towing babies in trailers, and children as young as 4 are all out pedalling along the river. It’s heart-warming to see, and I love being surrounded by other cyclists. It makes me feel like a part of something.

I’ve met a German guy named Dirk and his 9-year-old daughter, Julia. They stayed on the same campsite as me last night, and they just so happen to be at this one, too. Dirk invited me to eat with them, and we had quite a conversation. He seems like an interesting guy, and is very passionate about his work — he teaches wellness and teamwork to businesses, from what I gather.

Day 33: Munderkingen to Ulm – 36km

I’ve had some discomfort in my hands for the past week or so; my index finger on my right hand is completely numb, and my thumbs and wrists don’t seem to be quite right. It turns out that it’s carpal tunnel syndrome, which is apparently quite common in long-distance cyclists. It’s likely caused by the fact that I grip too hard when going downhill, don’t move my hands enough over the course of the day, and/or the vibrations from rough surfaces are impacting my wrists. I’ll need to take a few days off to let it recover, and make sure to move and stretch my hands frequently while cycling in the future.

Day 36: Neuberg an der Donau to Regensburg – 94km

I have fallen deeply in love with Germany. Almost every day, I cycle through a fairy-tale-like town, complete with cobbled streets, pastel-coloured buildings and quaint roadside cafes. Always rustic and elegant, I can never resist stopping for a mid-afternoon coffee in the square of a beautiful town. My mid-afternoon caffeine fix is always very much looked forward to, and I’ve enjoyed coffee in some wonderful locations along the route.

Tomorrow’s forecast is 36 degrees, so I’m going to take the day off in Regensburg to look for an air-conditioned cafe to work in. Regensburg is supposed to be a really beautiful city, with lots of history and great architecture, so maybe I can squeeze in some sightseeing in the morning before the sun gets too hot.

Hopefully, this heatwave dies down soon.

Day 40: Passau to Linz – 85km

I’d been told time and time again by other cyclists that the route between Passau and Vienna is the best section of the Danube. I can already see why. The surface is pristine, the scenery downright incredible, and the paths are dedicated for bicycles. I immediately noticed a difference in the number of bicycle tourists. I do usually see several cyclists every day, but today there were tons. 

I crossed over from Germany to Austria today, and Austria is somehow even more scenic than Germany.

Just past Schlongen, I stopped to take some photos. Another cyclist came over and offered to take my picture, and I did the same for him. We got talking and ended up going for a coffee at the cafe opposite. His name was Lionel, and he was cycling from his home in France to Budapest. We ended up cycling all the way to Linz together. It was so nice to have some company, and Lionel was a very interesting guy with lots to talk about.

Day 41: Rest day in Linz

I’ve got several days to complete very few kilometres, as I’m meeting my friend Ben in Vienna on the 8th. This means I’m taking things slow, and giving myself lots of time to explore this section of the Danube. Today, I’m taking a day off to see Linz.

I really liked Linz. There isn’t a ton to do here, but it’s a beautiful city and well worth a day to explore. I took the tram up to the Postlingberg and enjoyed coffee and cake with stunning views over the city; I visited the Ars Electronica Centre, which was a really interesting museum exploring modern-day technology; and I sat and read in the Hauptplatz (main square).

My campsite is super weird, though. Like, uncomfortably weird. The place for the tents is a tiny field inside what can only be described as a metal cage. There’s a toilet and shower block inside the metal cage, and inside the block, is a man and two women who are constantly sitting there. They watch me walk into the toilet, they watch me come out. It’s quite uncomfortable.

Day 43: Grein to Durnstein – 67km

More fabulous scenery graced me today. The Danube really is a beautiful river, and the bike paths here are just so perfect. It’s impossible to get lost, the tarmac is smooth, and there are lots of other cyclists.

I stopped in the town of Melk for a few hours today because I spotted a fabulous golden building towering above the town. Melk Abbey, as it’s called, is a Benedictine abbey home to the remains of Austria’s first ruling dynasty: the house of Babenberg. I’m not interested in royal history, but the architecture of the buildings, and particularly of the church inside, was sublime.

Day 44: Rest day in Dürnstein

Given that I still have a lot of time to kill before I need to be in Vienna, I’ve decided to take yet another day off to explore Dürnstein. This section of the Danube is littered with gorgeous little towns and villages, and I can’t resist visiting them all! I’m also in the Wachau Valley, one of Austria’s best wine-growing regions. So, of course, I went on a wine-tasting tour today.

Day 53: Vienna to Bratislava – 80km

I had read from other blogs that it’s very difficult to find the route out of Vienna. Lionel (the French guy I met just after Schlongen) had also messaged to warn me of this — he had gotten quite lost and ended up in a nudist park, or something. Well, I guess I got lucky. On my final night in Vienna, I moved to a campsite near the river, and the bike path was right there. No problems finding my way whatsoever.

The ride to Bratislava was quite uneventful. It seemed crazy that it was possible to cycle from one capital city to another in one day. I’m officially in Slovakia — the 6th country of this trip! I’m going to spend the day exploring Bratislava tomorrow as it’s supposed to be a really interesting city with a beautiful Old Town.

Day 55: Bratislava to Győr – 84km

You know, we live in one very small world. This morning, I walked out of my dorm room to check out, when I bumped into a guy who instantly looked familiar. “Lauren?” he said. “Christian!” I met him almost two years ago on a group tour in North Korea. That’s two years ago on a separate continent. Absolutely crazy. I regret not suggesting we go out for breakfast or a coffee, but I had to make it to Győr today.

I’m already loving the cheaper prices of Eastern Europe. My cappuccino today cost €1.20 — and it was rather fancy! However, the road surface is beginning to get a little bumpy. Tree roots are lifting the bike path, there are potholes, sticks and bracken covering the road, etc.

Győr seems really lovely, so even though I’ve just had a day off in Bratislava, I’m going to take another day to have a good look at Győr. I’ve been quite undisciplined with my bike lately, having lots of days off. But you know what? I’m in a beautiful part of Europe with lots to see, and so I’m going to take my time. I have to keep reminding myself that while, yes, I am cycling to Istanbul, it’s not a race.

Day 57: Győr to Sutto – 65km

Hungary is really quite beautiful! Today, I cycled along a dedicated bike path next to the river, and it was simply sensational.

Day 59: Szentendre to Budapest – 22km

Now that I’m in Budapest, I’m about halfway to Istanbul! I can hardly believe it. I know now — without a doubt — that I can do this. I am perfectly capable of finishing this journey, and nothing is going to stop me. The emotional turmoils of self-doubt, fear and loneliness have been kicked into the dirt, and I don’t think they’re going to resurface.

These past couple of months have been quite the whirlwind, but it’s been very rewarding and a hell of a lot of fun. It’s crazy to think back to the first two weeks — I was so unsure of myself and felt very vulnerable to be out alone on my bike, but now, cycling is more fun and therapeutic than it’s ever been. I’m confident, fit, and ready for anything.

I’m going to be spending 4/5 days in Budapest as my boyfriend is coming out to visit. He’s been to Budapest before, so he gets to show me around.

Day 64: Dunaújváros to Dunapataj- 77km

I’ve decided that I’m really not keen on cycling in Hungary. It’s been my least favourite country of the trip so far, mostly due to the poor infrastructure, shit dirt roads and barely-there signposting. Part of the EuroVelo 6 was closed, so I had to find an alternate route, which turned out to be quite difficult as every road seemed to funnel onto a motorway. I ended up having to trundle through desolate farmland where the paths were made of sand. Bicycles and sand — in case you didn’t know — do not go together. I got to my campsite only just before it got dark.

I’ve also found that the EuroVelo 6 through Hungary has been very scenically drab. There have been some beautiful sections, but I’ve been mostly cycling through endless fields of harvested crops, where nothing but brown grass is left in the wake. There’s no asphalt, either, so progress isn’t as fast as I would like. The EuroVelo 6 is known as “The Rivers Route” because it follows the river across Europe, but the Danube is currently a mere speck a few kilometres west.

Day 65: Dunapataj to Baja – 55km

The route had been quite busy with other cyclists up until Budapest, so I always had others to talk to, and I met a lot of fun people. Now, though, as I’m pushing further east, the tourist numbers are dwindling, and I’m finding it hard to meet people.

Cycling alone with your thoughts can cause you to overthink, and I often find myself questioning my ability, worrying about my safety, or worrying about a thousand other things that aren’t worth worrying about.

I usually love being on my own. Most days, I feel liberated and free and thoroughly enjoy my own company. I’m sure that feeling will return soon, and this is just something I need to overcome. I reckon the boring scenery of Hungary is causing me to feel a little disappointed right now.

Day 66: Baja to Suza – 74km

The EuroVelo 6 split into two today; one branch followed the west bank in Croatia, and the other branch followed the east bank in Serbia. I opted to choose the Croatian side, as the route crosses over into Serbia in a few days anyway. This gives me a few days to have a look at Croatia!

This morning, at the Croatian border, I got talking to two other British cyclists who were also queueing at passport control. Their names were Ian and Robert, and they were out cycling in Hungary, Croatia and Serbia for a week or so. We ended up spending the whole day together as they were also following EuroVelo 6. We parted ways at the end of the day, as they wanted to push on to Apatin, whereas I headed for a campsite in Suza.

It turns out that Croatia is beautiful. This campsite is great, too – it has modern, clean facilities, a kitchenette, a sheltered picnic area, free WIFI – everything! If ever you’re bicycle touring the EuroVelo 6 in Croatia, I recommend you stay at Camping Suza Baranje.

A group of three cyclists showed up at the campsite with a kitten! Apparently, they found this kitten back in Slovakia and wanted to look after him, so he sits in a front basket as they pedal along. I’ve seen several people towing dogs in trailers behind their bikes, but a cat. Amazing.

Day 68: Aljmas to Backa Palanka – 42km

I only spent 3 days cycling in Croatia, but I really loved it. The roads were impeccable, making for easy cycling, and the route was straightforward. It followed major roads, but these roads were actually very quiet, so the traffic was no problem. It was also very scenic.

About halfway through the day, I cycled through a town called Vukovar. An 87-day siege by the Yugoslav People’s Army occurred in Vukovar in 1991; scars from the war were very apparent here, and a bullet-hole-ridden water tower towered over the town.

Towards the end of the day, I crossed the border into Serbia, and am spending the night in Backa Palanka, a town just across from the border.

Cycling into Backa Palanka, I heard someone shout my name from across the road. I thought I’d probably misheard or that it was for a different Lauren, but I looked up to see Ian and Robert waving at me! I love how often you bump into the same people over and over on EuroVelo 6. There have been many times on this journey where I’ve seen the same people several days in a row, or have bumped into them a week or two after we originally met.

Now, I just need to cross Serbia, get halfway across Bulgaria and then cycle south to Turkey. Istanbul, you’re almost within my grasp.

Day 69: Backa Palanka to Cortanovci – 61km

Today’s cycling was a little taxing, I have to say. The traffic coming out of Backa Palanka was quite hairy, and I felt very uneasy about being on the road. On my way out of the city, I bumped into two other cyclists. We cycled together for quite some way but were unable to actually talk, thanks to the crazy traffic. Once we finally got onto a quieter road, I learned that they’re Ekapon and Air from Thailand, and are cycling from Geneva to Istanbul. We cycled together for a while and then went our separate ways.

The bike paths for most of the morning were pretty relaxed; they were free of motorised traffic and very well sign-posted. I arrived in Novi Sad at about 1 pm and took an hour or so to explore a little. Leaving Novi Sad was awful; I was spat out onto an unfavourable road, with even worse traffic than that which was coming out of Backa Palanka this morning.

And then, I was met with a 6km, 10% climb. By this stage of the trip, my legs are very much capable of such a climb. However, this sort of ascent means you have to cycle pretty slowly, and it can be hard to keep your bike in a straight line. Passing vehicles — of which there were many — barely gave a foot of space when they overtook, which made for quite a nerve-racking ride.

I eventually found the top of the incline and headed for the town of Cortanovci, which is where I was spending the night. A few hours later, Ekapon and Air showed up; we had a nice evening chatting at the campsite and decided to ride onwards together tomorrow. It’ll be nice to have some company.

Day 71: Day off in Belgrade

You know what? I love Serbia already. I remember feeling a little uneasy in the country at first, purely because other people had told me it’s unsafe. But it’s far from unsafe. I’ve been met with nothing but kindness and hospitality.

I’ve just spent the day in Belgrade, Serbia’s capital city. It’s really bohemian and modern, and jam-packed full of things to see and do. I’m beginning to get a little tired of cities, but Belgrade is the sort of place you can relax.

Day 72: Belgrade to Dubovac  – 77km

To leave Belgrade, EuroVelo 6 instructed us to put our bicycles into an elevator situated on a bridge, and go down to the river. I say we, as myself, Ekapon and Air had arranged to leave Belgrade and ride on together again.

Getting out of Belgrade was quite a challenge, and I was grateful Ekapon had his phone with the route mounted onto his handlebars. It made following the map a whole lot easier.

Once out of the city, we were taken onto a dirt path for quite some way. It made progress slow, but it was a scenic day. The Danube had lots of broken tree trunks in it, which gave it a really mysterious yet beautiful look, and we even saw wild otters swimming in the river.

Day 73: Dubovac to Dobra – 74km

This morning, we followed a scenic dirt path by the river — a dirt path full of farm animals, much to my delight. We cycled by a herd of cows and passed sheep and working dogs. We then had to get a ferry across the river, as the bicycle path ended here and continued on the other side.

Today, the scenery got really impressive. We cycled through a town called Golubac towards the end of the day, and here, the Danube gets very wide, resembling more of a lake.

Leaving Golubac, the route joined a main road. This road was actually very quiet, though, so I didn’t feel uneasy about the traffic. In fact, this road was beautiful. The tarmac was smooth, I had fantastic views of the river and mountains to my left, and we cycled past the staggering Golubac Castle.

Day 74: Dobra to Tekija – 72km

Today was a long yet beautiful day. The route wound us through the Djerdap National Park, where the views were simply incredible. There are several mountains to climb, but it’s completely worth it for the scenery. We climbed 650 metres up through the mountain pass and were pulled down by the descent on the other side. Views of the Danube flowing through the gorge to my left, the wind in my hair and the sun on my skin; it was simply sensational. Serbia is easily my favourite country of the trip so far.

Just before the town of Tekija, I spotted the Rock Sculpture of Decebalus — a king who battled during the Roman Empire — in the mountain on the opposite (Romanian) side of the river. It’s really quite an impressive rock carving!

Our campsite for the night is actually a designated free camping spot right on the beach. It has a portaloo and cold, outdoor shower for use, which, for a night of free camping, isn’t bad!

Day 75: Tekija to Negotin – 85km

Another fabulous day. Seriously, I think Serbia is the most underrated cycling destination in Europe.

This evening, I showed up with my tent to a guesthouse in Negotin, only to be given an already-erected, glamping-style, luxury tent. It even has a real mattress and pillows! That’s something I’ve not had in a while.

The host was a lovely man named Bojan, who went above and beyond to cater to us and make us feel welcome. He gave me a cup of coffee and some orange juice on arrival and provided us with a secure garage to keep our bikes in. He also knew a lot about cycling in the area, so it was great to pick his brain for advice on cycling into Bulgaria.

It’s easily the best guesthouse I’ve ever stayed at, so if you’re a cyclist passing through Negotin, you simply must stay at Base Camp for Adventurers “Urban Guerrilla”. We’ve decided to spend 2 nights here as the atmosphere and hospitality are so wonderful, and we won’t be having another day off for a while.

Day 77: Negotin to Vidin – 41km

After having enjoyed a wonderful day off in Negotin, we were ready to hit the road for Bulgaria. Bulgaria is the penultimate country of this trip, which makes me feel both sad and excited – sad for this trip to end, and excited at the prospect of almost having made it.

Today also marked the end of my time on EuroVelo 6. From Vidin, we’re going to be cutting southeast down Bulgaria and towards Turkey, whereas the EuroVelo 6 continues east along the Danube and to the Black Sea. I’m hoping we can find a pleasant route through Bulgaria – one that avoids busy roads. I’ve heard the traffic in Bulgaria can be quite scary for a cyclist!

Day 78: Vidin to Montana – 92km

Today we cycled 92km with a total elevation of 880 metres. If you would have told me 3 months ago that I could cycle 92km with that kind of elevation, I would have laughed in your face. My strength and stamina have come a long way since the beginning.

Luckily, we had been able to find quiet roads for most of today’s journey, aside from a goat-related traffic jam! I was quite sad to leave EuroVelo 6 – I’d been following it for a long time, after all, and had thoroughly enjoyed it.

Day 80: Vratsa to Botevgrad – 49km

Today was really beautiful. We climbed a lot, but the Bulgarian mountains are jaw-dropping. We cycled through picturesque villages, hurtled down mountain roads, and saw lots of donkeys.

Day 82: Panagyurishte to Plovdiv – 80km

Well, shit. Bulgaria is hilly. And very hot. The last few days have been gruelling. There’s not much to really note – we’ve been following quiet roads through the countryside, where the scenery is beautiful but samey. Sunflower field after sunflower field. Wheatfield after wheatfield.

Tonight, though, we managed to find a really cheap yet luxurious apartment to spend the night in at Plovdiv. It even has the same coffee machine I use at home, so I’ve been enjoying coffee that tastes just like home. Plovdiv seems like quite a nice city, although I must confess, I was a little too tired to really appreciate it.

Day 85: Svilengrad to Haskoy – 71km

I crossed into Turkey today. The final country. I’m just days away from Istanbul.

We decided to cut through Greece en route to Turkey — purely so we can say we’ve been there. We cycled from Svilengrad to the Greek border, cycled through Greece via Ormenio and Krios, enjoyed a Greek lunch at the border town of Kastanies, and then crossed into Turkey.

It hit 38 degrees, and I began to struggle badly. The road was long, dry and desolate. No matter how much water I drank, my mouth still felt like cotton.

A wave of exhaustion has hit me. I let it wash over me and acknowledged that I’m getting tired. Tired of dirt and discomfort, tired of the heat, tired of the boring landscape, tired of the relentless rolling hills.

But the end is so close. I’m in Turkey. Nothing is going to stop me from reaching Istanbul now.

Day 87: Kirklarelli to Saray – 74km

Another long, hot day in Turkey. My spirits are pretty high right now, though – I’m so close to the end. The locals here are so kind — today, a cafe owner came over to our lunch spot and gifted us some Turkish tea.

I am so grateful that I’ve been able to share the past couple of weeks with Ekapon and Air. The long, hot, hilly days would likely have been very mentally taxing without the company. I find that difficult situations are usually much-improved when you’re with other people; you can joke about it with them, rather than suffer in silence by yourself.

Day 89: Durusu to Istanbul – 64km

Istanbul is a sprawling metropolis. And I mean, seriously, it is one huge city. So huge, in fact, that I wasn’t sure when to officially allow myself to acknowledge that I’d made it. Once I passed the “Istanbul” sign? Once I found myself surrounded by traffic in the heart of the city? Once I was outside the Hagia Sofia?

I asked Ekapon and Air, “when can we officially say we’re in Istanbul?”

“When we’re at the bridge,” replied Ekapon. “The Bosphorus Bridge separates Europe and Asia.”

Perfect, I thought. My bike ride had taken me across the entire European continent – from London to Istanbul –  so it was ideal for the bridge into Asia to mark the very final end of my journey.

And so, for the next couple of hours, my eyes were heavily fixated on the Bosphorus Bridge in the distance. That bridge marked the end of my journey. The second I reach that bridge, I’ll have made it. I’ll have completed my bicycle journey from London to Istanbul.

The three of us spent about half an hour at the Bosphorus Bridge, taking silly photos of each other to commemorate our achievement. We joked, we laughed, and we reminisced. I was filled with a sense of accomplishment and pride like no other. I had done it. The past three months of blood, sweat and tears had been well and truly worth it.

To everyone who told me I was crazy for doing this trip, that it was unsafe and stupid for a woman to do this on their own, I politely say: “screw you.” I made it in one piece, feeling on top of the world and ready to take on anything.

Now, I’m off to find an expensive Turkish spa. I think I deserve it.

Would I make any changes to my route?

If I were to cycle London to Istanbul again, there are a few things I would do differently. Namely, I would make better use of other EuroVelo routes by including EuroVelo 5 and EuroVelo 13.

EuroVelo 5 would take me from Canterbury, England, all the way to Basel, Switzerland, from where I would join the EuroVelo 6. I would continue on the EuroVelo 6 to Negotin, Serbia, from where I would follow the EuroVelo 13 through Bulgaria to Kirklarelli, Turkey. I would keep my route through Turkey the same from there.

My reasons for this are that my routes through France and Bulgaria weren’t the best, and I think the scenery and roads would have been better if I had used EuroVelo routes instead of navigating myself along country roads. The EuroVelo 13 through Bulgaria isn’t very direct, but I believe it would have been nicer.

Below is a Google Map which connects EuroVelo 5, 6 and 13 across Europe, and is what I would recommend to anyone wanting to cycle London to Istanbul.

Keep reading 🚲

• Check out my Cycle Touring Hub to browse through all my cycling content
• My complete guide to cycle touring in Europe
• How to cycle into Istanbul from the West
• Cycling the EuroVelo 6
• Cycling in Serbia
• How to fly with a bike

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support — Lauren.

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