Serbia: Is This Europe’s Most Underrated Cycling Destination?

Europe is home to some of the best and most diverse cycling in the world. The Danube Cycle Path boasts flat paths and river-side views; The French climbs of Alpe d’Huez and Mont Ventoux attract those looking to test their endurance; and the Via Francigena offers jaw-dropping scenery and historical gems along its route.

But what about Serbia? Serbia is not a destination that people typically think of upon mentioning cycling in Europe.

It’s time to change that.

The EuroVelo 6 along the Danube in Serbia

The EuroVelo 6 – which follows the Danube river – is the most established long-distance cycling route in Serbia. I found it to be a wonderful route; very diverse with ever-changing scenery. One day I would be cycling through scenic farmland; the next through dramatic gorges; and the next alongside idyllic parts of the Danube.

I followed the EuroVelo 6 from the Croatian border to the Bulgarian border, passing by characterful villages, the energetic cities of Novi Sad and Belgrade, as well as through the stunning scenery of Djerdap National Park and The Iron Gates.

The road surface may not always be as smooth and pristine as those you may find in France or Austria, but they are certainly good enough for the most part. Occasionally I rode over unfavourable gravel or dirt paths, which could make progress slow, but the majority of the route followed quiet roads with smooth tarmac.

I was surprised at how well EuroVelo 6 was signposted – it was quite difficult to get lost. I found the bike paths in Western Europe were sometimes very indirect, taking me out of my way quite substantially at times, which could make the route difficult to follow if not for the signposts. This was not the case in Serbia: the route along the Danube was logical and easy.

I entered Serbia by crossing from the Croatian town of Ilok to the Serbian town Backa Palanka. Backa Palanka was pleasant enough, with a few nice cafes and eateries, and I spent the night there. I walked into my guesthouse and was immediately greeted enthusiastically by a young receptionist who insisted on helping carry my bags, locked my bike in a garage for me, and offered me coffee and a biscuit. This hospitality was just the beginning of what was to come!

The following day, I headed for Novi Sad; a lively city with a charming old town and impressive fortress. I spent an hour or so exploring Novi Sad before finishing the day just 20km east of the city near a town called Cortanovci.

The next day saw me arrive in Belgrade – Serbia’s capital city. I took a day off to explore the city; it was beautiful and interesting with lots to see, and the pedestrian zone in the city centre had a young, bohemian vibe which I really warmed to. I would actually recommend spending 2 days in Belgrade as it really does have a lot to offer.

After Belgrade, my route continued along the Danube via a dirt path. The dirt path made progress slow, but the only alternative was to take the busy highway. Cyclists are tolerated on this highway, but I don’t recommend anyone uses this! The scenery along the dirt path was actually very nice, and I enjoyed the peace and tranquillity here. The path was full of cows, sheep and chickens, which made for some interesting obstacles.

Between Kovin and Banatska Palanka, the Danube got really beautiful. The river was dotted with broken tree trunks which gave it a really interesting look. I also saw wild otters swimming along this section.

Later on in the route, I cycled through the town of Golubac. This is where the scenery got really impressive. Golubac is a beautiful town, and here, the Danube gets very wide, resembling more of a lake. The bank was dotted with nice cafes and restaurants, making it a perfect coffee stop.

Leaving Golubac, the route joined a main road. This road was actually very quiet, though, so I didn’t feel uneasy about the traffic. In fact, this road was beautiful. The tarmac was smooth, and I had fantastic views of the river and mountains to my left. I followed this road (the 34) for a while, and it wound me through the picturesque Djerdap National Park. One afternoon, I climbed 650 metres up through the mountain pass and was pulled down by the descent the other side. Views of the Danube flowing through the gorge to my left, the wind in my hair and the sun on my skin; it was simply sensational.

Just before the town of Tekija, I spotted the Rock Sculpture of Decebalus – a king who battled during the Roman Empire – in the mountain on the opposite (Romanian) side of the river. It’s really quite an impressive rock carving!

The final town on Serbia’s EuroVelo 6 is Negotin. I’ll always remember Negotin – the town itself is nice enough, but the guesthouse I stayed at made my time there memorable. Camp & Guesthouse for Cyclists & Adventurers “Urban Guerrilla” – just promise me, if ever you go cycling in Serbia, you’ll stay there.

Explore the undiscovered

One of the best reasons to go cycling in Serbia is that it’s not popular – yet. The EuroVelo 6 in Western Europe was full of other cyclists, and campsites along the route would be dominated by bike tourists. In Serbia, though, you’ll be lucky if you see more than 1 bicycle tourist every couple of days.

You can look at this as either a good thing or a bad thing. Perhaps you want to meet lots of other cyclists, or perhaps you want the bike paths all to yourself.

Serbian people are impossibly warm and hospitable

I cycled into Serbia feeling quite defensive. The only knowledge I had about Serbia regarded the NATO bombings from the 90s and the Western press which reported only violence and conflict. I had repeatedly been told to “be careful” because Serbia is an “unsafe” country. And so, I cycled across the border harbouring prejudice; worried that my bike was going to get stolen, or that I was going to be robbed.

Everyone was so wrong.

Never have I visited a country where the people were so kind and fiercely hospitable. People would wave and shout hello or “welcome to Serbia!” as I cycled past. I pulled up at a petrol station to buy a drink one afternoon, and a truck driver insisted on giving me some oranges. Our coffee tab was paid for by a kind man one day because “we don’t see many tourists here and you look cool on your bikes.”

I’m now quite embarrassed that I felt such negativity when crossing into Serbia – it was completely unfounded and reminds me not to listen to other people’s prejudice and misconceptions, or pictures painted by the media.

Serbians seem to really like bicycle tourists and are typically very respectful of cyclists. Many motorists would give a friendly beep as they were about to overtake, and some would even beep repeatedly and wave enthusiastically out the window.

It’s something that I will always remember about cycling in Serbia: how friendly the locals were.

Excellent camping for bicycle tourists

In line with the generosity and kindness I experienced across Serbia, campgrounds and guesthouses went above and beyond to cater to their guests and ensure our stay was comfortable. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality and incredible value of Serbian campgrounds. After a long day of cycling, a lovely campsite is always much looked forward to. All of the following can be found on the EuroVelo 6 bike path:

My Memento Rooms and Camping: Situated just 20km east of Novi Sad near a town called Cortanovci, this campground is situated in a lovely garden, with flowers and fruit trees. It has a small outhouse attached where campers can use the bathrooms, kitchenette and dining area. The landlady was chatty and warm and made me feel very comfortable. The dining area had homemade brandy for us to try, and we were also gifted pears from the orchard.

Camp & Guesthouse for Cyclists & Adventurers “Urban Guerrilla”: Situated in the lovely town of Negotin, this was easily the best guesthouse I’ve ever stayed at. I showed up with my tent, only to be given an already-erected, glamping-style, luxury tent. The host was a lovely man named Bojan who knew a lot about cycling in the area, so it was great to pick his brain for advice on cycling in Bulgaria. He gave me fresh orange juice and coffee on arrival, as well as some gorgeous pastries for breakfast. He even offered to come with me to the hairdresser to translate what style I wanted.

Camping Asin: Warmly welcomed by cold, homemade juice and fresh watermelon, Camping Asin is run by a wonderful lady called Milena. She has an infectious, positive energy and was an excellent host. The campsite has a kitchenette and sheltered picnic area, as well as very clean facilities.

Free Beach Campground, Tekija: Okay, so this campground is completely free, and therefore doesn’t come with a warm host bearing goodies. But, it does offer a beautiful beachfront location with views of the river and mountains. It has a portaloo and cold, outdoor shower for use, which, for a night of free camping, isn’t bad!

While the roads and infrastructure may not always be as pristine as you may find in France, Switzerland or Austria, Serbia is more rugged, more raw, and more exciting. Here, you’ll find the same dramatic scenery and majestic mountains – without the crowds and with a double dose of hospitality. If you’re keen to take the road less travelled, Serbia will reward you.

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