The Monsal Trail: Traffic Free Cycling Through the Heart of the Peak District

The Peak District boasts a diverse range of scenic cycling routes, and the Monsal Trail is certainly one of its best. Using the remains of the former Midland Railway that once linked Manchester and London, this 8.5-mile cycle route offers picturesque, traffic-free pedalling right through the heart of the Peak District National Park.

The railway was created in 1863 but closed a century after its construction due to government transport reforms, and the tracks fell into disuse. The land was then given to the Peak District National Park in 1981, who ripped up the rails and converted the remains into a public walking, cycling and horse riding trail – The Monsal Trail.

The Monsal Trail follows the stunning Wye Valley between Bakewell and (almost) Buxton, passing nature reserves, gorgeous White Peak scenery, quaint villages and remnants of the area’s industrial heritage.

Since the trail follows an old railway line, you can enjoy all this wonderful scenery while cycling on the flat! Traffic-free, with smooth paths and flat topography, it’s the perfect route for beginners, families or just an easy-going day of pedalling. You’ll spot kids on tiny bikes, elderly couples on e-bikes and everyone in between, so no one will feel out of place here.

Not only this, but the Monsal Trail runs through six old railway tunnels, all fully opened and lit during daylight hours: Headstone Tunnel, Cressbrook Tunnel, Litton Tunnel, Chee Tor Tunnel 1, Chee Tor Tunnel 2 and Rusher Cutting. Some are quite long and curved, meaning you can’t see the exit from the start of the tunnel, adding to the excitement of your ride.

In 1981, most of the route was opened to the public, but some of the former railway tunnels remained closed due to safety concerns. Upon completion of a restoration project in 2011, all the tunnels were opened to the public.

The Monsal Trail was quite busy when I visited, but it was a sunny Sunday, so a busy trail was to be expected. That being said, the trail is reasonably wide allowing for a two-way traffic flow; most people were respectful and stuck to the left, so the busyness wasn’t an issue. Still, I’d advise avoiding the weekends and school holidays where possible!

Get your map: A PDF map of the Monsal Trail can be found on the official Peak District website here.

History and highlights on the Monsal Trail

While many see the Monsal Trail as simply a pretty cycling route through the national park, history buffs may find it to be particularly interesting. Along the way, you’ll gain an insight into the history of the line and the many stations it passed through, as well as the industries which supported this part of the UK during the Industrial Revolution.

The Midland Railway was constructed in 1863 to link Manchester and London. It ran through the beautiful Wye Valley on the orders of the Duke of Devonshire, who refused to allow the railway to run through his land close to Chatsworth House.

The creation of the railway opened up this part of the country. With the new rail link, travel between Buxton and Bakewell now took just a few minutes, boosting the local economy and giving way to the industrial heritage we see today.

East Buxton Lime Kilns

The first remnant of the area’s industrial past is the old East Buxton Lime Kilns that will loom on your left after just a few minutes of cycling from the start of the trail at Chee Dale. Dismount your bike and head to the top of the kiln, where you’ll see a wagon that was once used to transport limestone and coal from the railway to the kilns.

All along the Monsal Trail, you’ll notice that many of the surrounding hills are made of limestone. The lime kilns were used to heat the limestone to produce quicklime, which was then used to produce iron, steel, paper and flue gases.

Litton Mill

About halfway along the trail, you’ll find two large cotton mills. You really can’t miss them; these big, square buildings may have been converted into apartments, but they still stick out like a sore thumb.

The first is Litton Mill, and you can walk up the path next to Litton Tunnel to see it more clearly. Sadly, Litton Mill has a dark history; the owners, Ellis Needham and Thomas Frith, were notorious for their poor treatment of their workers. They exploited orphaned children, making them work 14-hour shifts using unsafe equipment, and provided cold living quarters and basic food. It’s said that Charles Dickens based Oliver Twist on the testimony of a Litton Mill worker!

Cressbrook Mill

Soon after Litton Mill, you’ll spot Cressbrook Mill. Built by the founder of the industrial factory system, Richard Arkwright, the owners of Cressbrook Mill were thankfully much kinder to their child workers than those at Litton Mill. Not only will you be able to see the mill itself, but also the cottages used to house its child workers and weavers.

Headstone Viaduct

About a mile after Cressbrook Mill, you’ll reach the Headstone Viaduct at Monsal Head. The Monsal Trail follows the River Wye, and where the trail crosses the river, viaducts lift it over the valley floor. The view from Headstone Viaduct is, in my opinion, the highlight of the Monsal Trail, where you’ll be treated to a staggering view of the wonderful Derbyshire countryside and the River Wye.

How to get to the Monsal Trail

There are many entrance points to the Monsal Trail, including at Wye Dale, Miller’s Dale, Hassop Station, Monsal Head and Bakewell Station, all of which have pay and display car parks.

The most parking is in Bakewell where there are several pay and display car parks in town, including one directly next to the trail at Bakewell Station.

If you want to cycle the whole trail, you’ll want to start at the eastern end at Blackwill Mill, which you can get to from the Wye Dale Car Park (pay and display) or the Chee Dale Layby (free). Alternatively, you can start at the western end of the trail at Bakewell Station.

My father and I cycled from our campsite in nearby Chelmorton and accessed the trail by entering the public footpath at Chee Dale Layby. You can take your bike down the footpath here to the start of the Monsal Trail at Blackwell Mill – it was a little rocky and steep so unless you’re confident and on a mountain bike, you may want to walk the bike down. You can park at Chee Dale Layby for free, although there is limited space, so best to get there early!

Bus services also operate along the A6, the nearest main road to the Monsal Trail, with stops at Bakewell Town Centre, Ashford in the Water, White Lodge, Taddington, Blackwell Turn and Wye Dale.

Where can you hire bikes for the Monsal Trail?

Perhaps you’ve got your own bike, but if not, you can hire one from Blackwell Mill Cycle Hire, which can be found at the very start of the Monsal Trail in Blackwell Mill. The centre can be accessed from the Wye Dale Car Park, just off the A6.

Alternatively, you can hire a bike from Hassop Station, which is situated more towards Bakewell, on the opposite side of the trail to Blackwell. It was once a station on the railway line and has now been converted into a cafe and cycle hire.

Happy cycling,
Lauren

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