Is Ha Long Bay Worth Visiting?

A Ha Long Bay cruise might just be Vietnam’s most cliched activity. It’s one of the most visited destinations in the country, attracting an astounding 6 million tourists each year.

As you would expect from such a unique natural wonder, there is a well-worn path that leads straight to the bay from the hostels of Hanoi. While the waters here were once home to only a handful of sleepy fishing villages, they now accommodate hundreds of tourist-clad boats every day. Many would argue that Ha Long Bay has been loved to death.

I’m always quite cynical about big tourist destinations and find that they’re rarely worth the hype. However, as the morning sun casts a pink dawn over the bay, I feel my cynicism dwindle. The daylight reveals the karst mountains among which we slept; towering, forested islets that rise up out of emerald waters. Yes, Ha Long Bay is worth the hype.

My experience of Ha Long Bay

After doing some research, we decided to join a 3-day, 2-night adventure cruise of Ha Long Bay. This meant we would leave the day-trippers behind, allowing us to visit more secluded areas, do some kayaking, go hiking on some of the islands, and get away from the hoards of boats that congregate near the coast.

The Vietnamese government has recently cracked down on the number of boats allowed to cruise the bay. Even fewer are allowed to anchor up overnight, which makes us one of the lucky few.

We’re picked up from our hostel in Hanoi at 7:30 am and driven to the coast. In typical Southeast Asian fashion, we’re relayed between different guides at different points and taken to our final destination by 2 buses, 2 boats, a minivan and a taxi. The whole journey took about 5 hours.

The arduous journey is quickly forgotten once onboard our cruise ship, though.

Kayaking among Ha Long Bay’s islets

After a lunch of pho and summer rolls, we jump into kayaks and weave ourselves between the karst towers of rock. There are more than 1,600 islets in Ha Long Bay, formed by 500 million years of tropical downpours eroding the delicate limestone. As we gently push our kayaks through the water, I begin to really appreciate the dramatic yet peaceful scenery that surrounds me.

Back on board, we settle in for our first night in the bay. I watch in awe as the sun sets over the limestone towers, its rays reflecting across the calm waters of the South China Sea.

Hiking on Cat Ba Island

The following morning, we cruise towards Cat Ba Island. Rugged and craggy, this is the biggest island in Ha Long Bay and is home to the forested Cat Ba National Park. This World Heritage Site is a designated biosphere reserve, providing refuge for golden-headed langurs, civets, macaques, hornbills and a myriad of other fascinating species.

We’re here to hike to Ngu Lam peak, a 2-hour return trip which showcases brilliant views over the surrounding jungle. It’s a sweaty climb in the Vietnamese humidity, but the view from Ngu Lam’s top is a fair reward.

Staying on a Private Island

From Cat Ba, we set off to Cat Ong Island, which is privately owned by our tour operator. This means we have a gorgeous island all to ourselves, and I count my lucky stars for this incredible opportunity. We go for a coastal hike, exploring the shoreline and rocky outcrops of the island, before heading to rustic bungalows on the beach to unwind for the evening.

Experiencing Ha Long Bay in different lights

We’d had fantastic weather during our time in Ha Long Bay, with blue skies and warm temperatures, but woke up on our final morning to find that a misty veil had been painted across the landscape. As we set off back towards Hanoi, I quickly discovered that the change in the weather had cast a completely different tone over the bay.

Ha Long Bay now looked more dramatic, more mysterious, and somewhat eerie. Mist clung to the forested tops of the islets; the sea now an uninviting shade of grey. I felt glad to have been able to see the bay in both bright and gloomy weather, as the contrast between both lights is really quite astonishing.

So, is Ha Long Bay worth visiting?

If you can’t already tell from the gushing account of my time in Ha Long Bay, the answer is yes — Ha Long Bay is definitely worth visiting. However, I think it’s only worth visiting if you’re able to stay for 2 nights or more, as you’ll be sticking with the crowds otherwise. The ability to cruise away from the other boats, go hiking on the islands and kayak in secluded coves is what made my time exploring Ha Long Bay so magical.

Convinced? Check out my comprehensive guide on planning your trip to Ha Long Bay.

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