Dandong: The Chinese City on the Edge of North Korea

Looking into a country from across the border of another would usually make for a rather boring day out. That is unless you’re on the border with the most secretive and mysterious nation on the planet. When North Korea is your neighbour, everything within eyesight is fascinating.

Situated in northeast China, the city of Dandong lies right on the border with North Korea, with only the Yalu River separating the two countries. It’s a mere stone’s throw away from its neighbour and is the hermit kingdom’s gateway to the rest of the world.

It is this proximity to North Korea which puts Dandong firmly on the map, and which draws curious tourists hoping to peek directly into the country itself.

A glimpse into life in North Korea

Looking across the narrow stretch of the Yalu River, it’s not hard to believe that the land on the other side is North Korea. The opposite bank is completely incongruous with this one; a barren strip of land peppered with grey buildings and a distinct lack of life.

The Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge directly connects the two countries, providing transit between Dandong and the North Korean city of Sinuiju. Sinuiju is the main overland port of entry for tourists and foreign trade to North Korea, and apparently, even Kim Jong-un uses this bridge to enter China as he doesn’t like to fly.

Being the only access point to North Korea from China, Dandong is home to an intriguing blend of both cultures. To my surprise, there were North Koreans conducting business in the city, North Korean waitresses serving in restaurants, and vendors selling North Korean goods in the streets.

Things to do in Dandong

There are lots of things to do in Dandong, and most tourist attractions unsurprisingly play into the city’s close proximity to North Korea. Other than visiting the Demilitarised Zone in South Korea, this is the closest you can get to North Korea without actually venturing into the country itself. Here are some ideas on how to catch a glimpse into the Hermit Kingdom.

Walk the Great Wall of China at Hushan

Dandong is home to the most easterly section of The Great Wall of China, where it runs for about 1,200 metres over Hushan (also known as Tiger Mountain). The surrounding scenery is really beautiful and this section of the wall is a lot less busy than the sections accessed from Beijing and other parts of China.

Walking the wall up and over Hushan makes for a moderately challenging hike in the heat — we reached the top dripping with sweat! The walk is worth it, though, as you can see across into North Korea, which is visible beyond the river banks. Interestingly, the countryside seems to be split in two by the Yalu River and there is a clear difference in the landscape.

Peer into a North Korean watchtower

Near the entrance to the Great Wall at Hushan, you’ll find a large stretch of fencing with North Korea on the other side. There is a pair of binoculars near this fencing which points directly at a North Korean watchtower. Take a peek, and you might see a guard inside keeping watch. It was quite surreal to be able to see into the country like this.

Try some Korean cuisine

Dandong is home to a unique blend of both Chinese and North Korean culture. There are lots of Korean restaurants, particularly along the river bank, and North Korean waitresses serve in many of these establishments. So, what should you eat?

Pyongyang Cold Noodles: This is the national dish of North Korea. The Chinese have added their own twist so it’s not exactly the same as what you’d get in Pyongyang, but it gives you a good idea. Think buckwheat noodles, a protein, kimchi, cucumber, pear and a hardboiled egg.

Korean BBQ: Korean BBQ is famous worldwide and Dandong is a great place to eat it. You’ll find many restaurants with smoke billowing out the doors, indicating that a good BBQ is inside.

Take a speedboat tour of the Yalu River

Taking a speedboat out onto the Yalu River is a great way to get up close to North Korea. You cannot moor up or set foot on North Korean soil, but the captain will slow down near the bank and skirt along the shoreline.

At first, it was very quiet with barely any signs of life, except for one or two military personnel who kept a close eye on us. Our captain placed a towel over his head as we got closer — I was unsure whether he did this because the sun was hot, or to hide his identity from the North Korean officials.

After a while, some buildings came into view, as well as a waterslide with a few people queuing at the top.

North Koreans have been known to throw rocks at tourist boats that get too close — understandably, they don’t like to be stared at like zoo animals! Please be mindful and remind your captain to keep a respectable distance if he/she gets too close.

Visit the New Yalu River Bridge

Just like the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge, the New Yalu River Bridge runs from Dandong to Sinuiju. However, this bridge goes to a random field outside of Sinuiju, as North Korea has not built any roads connecting to the bridge.

The bridge reportedly cost China £250 million to build and was supposed to strengthen the alliance between China and North Korea. Clearly, this did not go to plan as the bridge remains unused.

Walk the Yalu River Broken Bridge

The Yalu River Broken Bridge is one of the most famous landmarks in Dandong. Built by the Japanese in 1905, the bridge ran from Dandong to Sinuiju, but was destroyed by US forces during the Korean War.

The Chinese restored their side of the bridge, but the North Korean side remains broken, so you can walk halfway across the river before coming to an abrupt stop. There is a viewing platform here where you can gaze across to North Korea, and you can even peer through some binoculars for a few Yuan to take a closer look.

Little activity in North Korea can be seen from the bridge, but the most eye-catching object is a white Ferris wheel which stands motionless. Apparently, locals have never seen the wheel being used; it just appeared one day for seemingly no reason other than for fake prosperity.

Dandong essentials

Want to visit Dandong and take a peek into North Korea for yourself? Here’s what you need to know when planning your trip.

Where: Accommodation in Dandong is somewhat limited, but you can check out places to stay here.

When: It can get quite cold during the winter and rainy during the summer, so I would say that May/June and September/October are the best months to visit Dandong.

How: High-speed bullet trains run between Beijing and Dandong twice daily and take about 5 hours. You can also take a bus to Dandong from the coastal city of Dalian.

→  Want to visit North Korea itself? Check out my North Korea travel guide.

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